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Clothing & Fashion
(Ancient
Dress). Lens, André Corneille. Le costume
ou essai sur les habillements et les usages de plusieurs peuples de l’antiquité,
prouvé par les monuments. Liege: Aux dépens de l’auteur, chez
J.F. Bassompierre, 1776. 4to (24.9 cm, 9.8"). xxxi, [1], 411, [1] pp.; 51 plts
$1750.00
Single-click any image where the hand appears on
mouse-over, for an enlargement.
First edition: Treatise on ancient dress among the Egyptians, Greeks, Persians, Jews, and Romans, among other peoples. The author, a Flemish artist also known as Andries Cornelis Lens, came to the study of antiquarian clothing by way of his classically inspired focus in painting. Illustrated with 51 copper-engraved plates done by Pitre Martenasie, this is an “Ouvrage estimé” according to Brunet (who seemingly mistakenly cites 57 engravings as opposed to the 51 given by von Lipperheide, described in institutional holdings, and present here).
Brunet, III, 980; Von Lipperheide, Katalog der Freiherrlich von Lipperheide’schen Kostumbibliothek, 105. Contemporary calf, rebacked in complementary style, spine with gilt-stamped leather title and author labels and gilt-stamped compartment decorations; original leather acid-pitted and cracked over edges and extremities. Front pastedown with small bookseller’s ticket from Albany, NY; free endpapers with a few stray pencilled notations. Dedication page with institutional rubber-stamp in lower margin.

Illustrated Indigenous
Customs & Dress
FIRST Edition in ENGLISH
Clavigero, Francesco Saverio. The history of Mexico. Collected from Spanish and Mexican historians, from manuscripts, and ancient paintings of the Indians ... translated from the original Italian, by Charles Cullen. London: Pr. for G.G.J. and J. Robinson, 1787. 4to (28.5 cm, 11.2"). 2 vols. I: [2], xxxii, [4], 440, (441–44), 441–76 pp. (pagination skips v/vi, with text complete); 1 fold. map, 25 plts., 1 table. II: [4], 463, [1 (blank)] pp.; 1 fold. map, 1 plt.
$2750.00
Click the interior images for enlargements.
First edition: Cullen's translation, the first in English, of Clavigero's Storia antica del Messico, an important description of the country synthesized from a range of sources including Torquemada. Abbé Clavigero, a Mexican-born Jesuit and antiquarian who left the country when the Jesuits were expelled in 1767, also wrote a history of California, but is better remembered for the
often-reprinted present work, which is notably critical of the Spanish and sympathetic to the natives.
Because of his exile, he was forced to write his chief historical treatises in Italy, from such notes and recollections of facts in manuscripts read in Mexico as he was able to carry with him, doing his additional extensive research in libraries and archives in Italy; the works of his exile universally first appeared in Italian, not his native Spanish. Indeed, this translation into English was made from the original Italian and precedes the edition in Spanish, which did not appear until 1826!
The
two oversized, folding maps were engraved by T. Conder; a genealogical chart in vol. I shows the descent of the Mexican kings from the 13th century, while
numerous engraved plates depict Mexican artifacts, costumes, activities, flora and fauna, architecture, etc.
DeBacker-Sommervogel, II, 1210; Palau 55485; Sabin 13519. Not in Medina, Biblioteca hispano-americana; not in León-Portilla, Tepuztlahcuilolli, but see 624 for the 1868 edition and a lengthy discussion of the work's importance for Nahuatl studies. On Clavigero, see: Charles Ronan, Francisco Javier Clavigero, S.J. (1731–1787), Figure of the Mexican Enlightenment; and Archivo biográfico de España, Portugal, e Iberoamérica, fiche 215, frames 148–218. 19th-century half red morocco, plain style. Scattered light foxing in text, heavy on endpapers. Ex-library with partially eradicated stamps; call numbers faintly visible on spines. In all, a good+ / good++ set of an important work. (24582)
(English Political Satire PLUS). Venus attiring the graces. London: J. Dodsley, 1777. 4to
(24.8 cm, 9.75"). 11, [1 (blank)] pp. [with]
[Mason, William?] [Ode to Mr. Pinchbeck,
upon his newly invented patent candle-snuffers. London: J. Almon, 1776]. [5]–11,
[1 (adv.)] pp.
$385.00
Satiric verse mocking fashionable English dress, accompanied by
a political satire addressed to Christopher Pinchbeck which includes the lines
“Haste then, and quash the hot Turmoil, / That flames in Boston’s
angry Soil . . .” The first work is here in its first edition, while the
second is likely an early printing.
Venus: ESTC T73277; Ode: ESTC T41985 (first ed.). Recent marbled
paper–covered boards, spine with printed paper label. Second work lacking
half-title and title-page. Inner margins of two leaves reinforced; last line
of advertising page shaved. Title-page and last few leaves with moderate foxing;
one page (not the title) stamped by a now-defunct institution, with some offsetting
to opposing page.

Greenaway's Lads & Lasses
Greenaway, Kate. Mother Goose or the old nursery rhymes. London & New York: George Routledge & Sons, [1881]. 12mo (17.2 cm, 6.45"). 48 pp. (with contents pr. on front free endpaper).; illus.
$100.00
First edition, second issue of this classic, charming Greenaway-illustrated work, engraved and printed by Edmund Evans.
Not in Gottlieb, Early Children's Books & Their Illustration. Publisher's quarter rose and ivory cloth, covers with title stamped in brown surrounded by green latticework, dust jacket lacking; binding darkened and spotted. Front free endpaper with small inked ownership inscription. Sewing starting to loosen; light offsetting from facing images occasionally noticeable; some pages with tears at inner margins; a good copy only — yet, still, a charming thing! (27046)

The
Cabinet Cyclopaedia:
SILK
Porter, George Richardson, & Dionysius Lardner, eds. A treatise on the origin, progressive improvement, and present state of the silk manufacture. Philadelphia: Carey & Lea, 1832. 12mo (18.7 cm, 7.4"). 276 pp.; illus.
$125.00

Click the images for enlargements.
First U.S. edition (following the first London of the previous year) of this entry in the successful series of reference books entitled The Cabinet Cyclopaedia ... Useful Arts, which includes various and authoritative volumes on arts and manufactures, biography, history, etc.; its editor, the Rev. Dionysius Lardner (1793–1859), was a prolific writer and lecturer on science and technology. The present volume covers the history of the silk trade, the care of mulberry trees and of silkworms, the preparation of silk (including gauze, velvet, and brocade), and the “chemical, medical, and electric properties of silk”; it is illustrated with a number of in-text, wood-engraved depictions of silkworms and assorted machines.
Goldsmiths'-Kress 27353.19; this vol. not in American Imprints. Publisher's quarter red cloth and tan paper–covered sides, spine with printed paper label; binding lightly worn and faded, with paper chipped, spots of soiling, head of spine chipped and band of cloth tape extending across it. Ex–social club library: 19th-century bookplate, call number on endpaper, pressure-stamp on title-page. No other markings. Uncut copy; pages generally clean. (26262)
For
a bit more about SILK &
SILKWORMS, click
here.
Salt, Henry. A voyage to Abyssinia, and travels into the interior of that country, executed under the orders of the British government, in the years
1809 and 1810; in which are included, an account of the Portuguese settlements on the east coast of Africa .... Philadelphia: M. Carey; Boston: Wells & Lilly (pr. by Lydia R. Bailey), 1816. 8vo (23.5 cm, 9.25"). 24, 454 pp.; fold. map.,
illus.
$1250.00
First U.S. edition and printed by Lydia Bailey, following the London
first of 1814. Salt, a British traveller and Egyptologist, first visited Ethiopia
in 1805, and returned in 1809 on a diplomatic mission intended to promote ties
between the British government and the Emperor of Abyssinia. The Voyage gives
Salt’s observations of Ethiopian customs, manners,
dress,
cuisine, and music, along with the factual details of his diplomatic achievements
— or lack thereof, in terms of concrete agreements — followed by
an appendix comparing vocabulary words from various languages spoken along “the
Coast of Africa, from Mosambique to the borders of Egypt, with a few others
spoken in the Interior of that Continent” (p. 395).
This is an untrimmed copy in original boards, with
24
pages of advertising for Carey publications bound in at
the front of the volume. The preliminary map, engraved by John Bower, has
hand-colored border lines; this American edition does not call for the plates
found in the English first, but does include in-text depictions of several
“Ethiopic inscriptions.”
Shaw & Shoemaker 33864; NSTC 2S3118. Publisher’s quarter
tan paper over light blue paper–covered sides; front cover detached
and back joint cracked, binding spotted, paper cracked and split along spine,
spine label now absent and replaced with hand-inked title, spine with later
paper shelving label. Front pastedown with institutional bookplate, front
free endpaper with inked ownership inscription dated 1829. Half-title with
portion of outer margin torn away (not touching text) and laid in. Map lightly
foxed, with two short tears along folds. Pages age-toned, with occasional
spots of foxing.
Spain.
Sovereigns, 1621–1665 (Philip IV).
Prematica en que su magestad manda, que ninguna muger ande tapada, sino descubierta
el rostro, de manera que pueda ser vista, y conocida, so las penas en ella contenidas,
y de las demas que tratan de lo susodicho. Madrid: Pedro Tazo, 1639. Folio (28.2
cm, 11.1"). A4; 4 ff.
$750.00
Scarce royal proclamation forbidding women from appearing in public wearing hats that prevent their faces from being plainly seen and recognized, also printed in Granada in the same year.
Click the image for an enlargement.
Palau 87353 (for Granada printing). Removed from a nonce volume. Title-page with shadow of pencilled numeral and faintly inked earlier numeral in upper margin. Pages creased but clean, with tiny hole along fold of last leaf.
Vallejo, Fernando de. Pregon en que su magestad manda, que ninguna muger de qualquier estado y calidad que sea pueda traer, ni traiga guardainfante, ò otro instrumento, ò trage semehante, excepto las mugeres que con licencia de las justicias publicamente son malas de sus personas. Madrid: En la imprenta de Francisco Martinez, 1639. Folio (28.2 cm, 11.1"). [4] ff.
$750.00


Declaration forbidding farthingales (the “guardainfante” was so-called because it could be used to conceal pregnancy) and excessive displays of decolletage by women except for prostitutes and ladies with special licenses.
Click the image for an enlargement.
Palau 236212. Removed from a nonce volume. Title-page with small early inked numeral and shadow of pencilled numeral in upper margin; publication authorization leaf with small hole just touching letters, without loss of sense.
For EUROPEAN LAW, click here.
Vallejo,
Fernando de. Pregon en que
su magestad manda, que por quanto el abuso de las guedejas y copetes con que andan
algunos hombres, y los rizos con que componen el cabello ha llegado à hazer
escandalo en estos reynos, ningun hombre pueda traer guedejas ni copete.
Madrid: En la imprenta de Francisco Martinez, 1639. Folio (28.2 cm, 11.1"). [4]
ff.
$750.00
Proclamation regarding acceptable and unacceptable hairdressing
practices for men — in particular, the scandalously long hairdos or wigs
worn by fashionable beaux.
Click
the image for an enlargement.
Palau 236209. Removed from a nonce volume. Pages creased, with
small areas of light waterstaining to upper and lower inner margins; title-page
with early inked numeral and shadow of pencilled numeral in upper margin.
This appears in the HISPANIC
MISCELLANY click here.
Social
THEATRICAL Pleasures
— A Social Club's
Copy
(What
does the “Sleeping Maiden” wear?). Head, James
H. Home pastimes or tableaux vivants. Boston: J.E. Tilton, 1860. 12mo.
264 pp., lacks printed title-page.
[SOLD]
Click
the images for enlargements.
First edition, not a modern reprint. Includes “one hundred
tableaux, with full descriptions of
costumes,
scenery, positions, lights, shades, etc., designed for public exhibitions and
the home circle.” An important work for the study of Victorian play, recreation,
social interaction — and, theater. Notes at the back explain how to achieve
fire effects, sound effects, etc.
The added title-page is printed in red and black and has a wood-engraved
vignette of friends-and-family spectators rapt before a home stage.
Provenance:
The German Society of Pennsylvania.
Publisher's blue textured cloth stamped in blind; light discoloration
to edges. Ex–social club library, as above: call number in a neat 19th-century
hand on endpapers and fly-leaf, rubber- and pressure-stamp on title-page and
rubber-stamp on a very few other pages. No other markings. Faint waterstain
at front in some lower margins. With the handsome added title-page but without
the printed “main” one. Withal, a good copy. (26283)
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